When people think of Italy, they think of coffee, and when they think of the coffee capital, they think of Trieste. Trieste is a port city that has been a gateway for coffee trade since the Habsburg era, becoming one of the most coffee-saturated cities in the world. Trieste is home to legendary roasters, world-renowned coffee research institutions, and a deeply embedded coffee culture unlike anywhere else in Europe. So, if Trieste can be considered Europe’s legendary coffee capital, then another city can be regarded as the coffee capital of the other side of the world. As a matter of fact, Melbourne is celebrated not only as the coffee capital of Australia, but also of the entire world! Even if Trieste and Melbourne are very distant and different they share the unique passion for coffee, that connects them through history.
The tradition of coffee in Trieste has to do with the establishment of the “Porto Franco” (free port) in 1719 established by Emperor Charles VI. The special legislation of the port made Trieste one of the main commercial harbours in Europe and stimulated trade by attracting companies, investments and immigrants. It was at that time that Trieste became the most important Italian city for the import of coffee beans. The precious coffee that arrived was destined for the consumption of the entire Austro-Hungarian Empire, as it was considered a fashionable beverage among the European bourgeoisie. With the arrival of tons of coffee, a lot of related industries arose. Among these, Hausbrandt and Illy, world renown brands to this day. The coffee shops became the ultimate meeting place, where intellectuals and writers, such as Joice and Svevo, discussed art, politics and wrote some pages of literary masterpieces.
The connection between Italian and Australian coffee cultures must be sought in the two countries’ history. In fact, Melbourne in some ways owes its title of coffee capital of the world to Italy. It was the Italian immigrants of the 20th century who contributed to the rise of coffee, introducing espresso machines during the period of World War II and founding various Italian-style coffee houses. This introduction sparked the development and the popularity of espresso coffee culture in the country. Post World War II, the integration of Italian immigrants into Melbourne played a pivotal role in shaping its distinctive coffee culture. They combined their own coffee traditions with British dining influence and the appeal of Hollywood in order to forge an incomparable coffee landscape.
Nowadays for both Melburnians and Triestines coffee is an integral part of their lifestyle and an amazing way to socialise. If consuming coffee for Italians is a tradition, in Trieste it is part of people’s DNA. It is said that in Trieste the air itself smells of skilfully roasted blend and every year the Triestines consume, on average, twice as many coffee beans as the rest of Italy. Melbourne too is a city that courses caffeine through its veins, as it is the city in the world with the most cafes per capita.
Coffee in Trieste has even its own nomenclature, which exists only there and nowhere else in Italy. The multifaceted world of local coffee reflects not only the city’s affection for this drink but also the nuances of its citizens: the multiculturalism typical of a border place and the customs that make it unique. Similarly, in Melbourne there are almost as many ways to drink coffee as there are people in the city, with a host of styles you won’t find anywhere else in the country. For visitors to both cities, coffee terminology can be confusing. But learning it is part of the experience.
In Trieste there is no “espresso” or “macchiato”, but rather a “nero” (black) or a “capo”. And then to pretend to be a true local, the best order is the “capo in B”, Triestines’ favourite one: halfway between a macchiato and a cappuccino but served in a glass instead of a cup.
In Melbourne a “long black” is a double shot of espresso added to hot water, while a “flat white” can loosely be called a latte, but it’s stronger, and goes easy on the foam. A “cappuccino”, unlike the flat white, is served with a thick layer of foam and chocolate powder on top. And then there is the “magic”, the most Melbournian of all coffees: a double ristretto topped with steamed milk and served warm, rather than hot, in a mid-sized cup.
So, whether you are ordering a ‘capo in B’ at a historic counter in Trieste or a ‘Flat White’ in a Melbourne laneway, you aren’t just buying a coffee – you are taking part in a living ritual shaped by centuries of history.
Articolo di Eleonora Triches – studentessa SSLMIT di Trieste